Questions and Answers . Models

“What is TFP/TFCD?”
“I’m just starting to get into modeling and I’m curious about how I can find more work”
“What are your safety tips?” 
“What do I need to know about releases before I start modeling?”
“I’m concerned that images taken of me will be used for publications that I do not approve of. How can I still model but not 
end up in a porn magazine?”
"What needs to be in my portfolio? How recent should these pictures be?"
"In nude modeling, what about shaving?"
"I want to be a nude model but what will I do when I’m on my period?" 
“Do you have any tips for the runway walk?”
“What do you bring to an open call?”
“What do you bring to the show?”
"Does freelance figure modeling involve a certain type of body type? Or is a wide range acceptable?”  
"What is posing for figure drawing like?”
“I need help coming up with poses” 
“How much money do freelance models usually charge?”
“Can you recommend some good photographers and make-up artists?”

“What is TFP/TFCD?”

TFP and TFCD are the acronyms standing for “time for prints” and “time for cd.” Essentially though, these two phrases describe a type of compensational agreement between a photographer and a model. In exchange for the time a model spends working with a photographer, the photographer gives a model images taken, in prints or in digital form on a CD or DVD. Specific details are up to negotiation between the participating parties. Examples of details which need to be negotiated are:

- How many prints or how many digital images will be given to the model? 10 3x5 prints? All of the digital images on one CD? This detail also depends on the length of the shoot or how much work was accomplished. I recommend that a model request all of the images taken! If the photographer works in film, ask that he provide scans perhaps in addition to some prints.
- Who does the editing? I’ve sometimes gotten cd’s of 274 unedited images! The images are not web-size and sometimes need to be cropped or touched up. If a model is unfamiliar with photo shop have several options. Either request editing be done on an agreed amount of images for your portfolio or learn photoshop! Learning some basic editing will be a good investment if you plan on modeling for a while. Besides, you'll be shooting with people that can teach you the tricks of the trade.
- And any other concerns, ideas, ect…

“I’m just starting to get into modeling and I’m curious about how I can find more work”

Modeling is a job that depends on who you know and what you do with that information. The great thing about freelance modeling is that you are in control of your career. An agency is not actively seeking jobs for you whereas freelance models manage themselves and only themselves. As the manager of yourself, you can actively seek assignments just for you. There are very few "top" modeling jobs (ex. modeling in a magazine Versace ad) these are the jobs that agencies are involved with. On the other end of the spectrum, there are a ton of accessible level modeling gigs that can be found everywhere. If one was interested in getting into the "top” ranks of modeling work, start from the bottom. I don't personally recommend commercial modeling but if I wanted to get up there I'm sure I could just through the sheer amount of connections I have made over the years. When you're first starting out, TFP is the way to go. TFP gives a model a way to expand their portfolio, but also expand their network. Photographers know photographers, and photographers also know artists from other mediums if you’re interested in related areas of work (film perhaps!). Essentially, I'm saying that to get more work you have to work. You have to take the initiative to seek out jobs. Try to be creative and flexible but also know your limits. Some of the online sites for finding work include:

www.onemodelplace.com
www.modelmayhem.com
www.musecube.com
www.modelplace.com
www.deviantart.com

Keeping updated portfolio's of your work on these sites helps with promotion. Also, craigslist (www.craigslist.org) can be amazing. I do recommend replying to ads that seem like something that you're interested in. Other non-online resources depend on the trusty network. It truly depends on what type of work you are interested in. I know a couple of models that find figure modeling by calling up places that have classes and seeing if they need models. Also, if you're interested in fashion work, meeting people from art colleges in the city perhaps is a good way to network. Plus, fashion departments oftentimes need runway models for student projects, calling the school to see if they need anyone can work. To use your network properly, a model MUST ask questions!!! Being super friendly helps! I've found that people that are in the photography business are more than happy knowing they are being helpful and when have you met someone that doesn't want to brag about who they know? If you want to know more about why I don't recommend commercial modeling then check out my philosophy link!

“What are your safety tips?”

If you are finding work online, there are certain safety rules you should follow. Overall though, a model should trust her intuition. If something's funky, don't follow through with it. Break agreements if you have to! Safety comes first. The other guidelines are as follows: First, make sure you are clear about your limits before you even start talking to photographers. Be firm in what types of work you will or will not do. Second, when a photographer does contact you (or you contact him) be sure to ask for references. Email addresses of previous models are sufficient and if possible, also get links to their online portfolios and cross reference the email address. Talk to models he has worked with before. Ask them questions like: how professional was the photographer? Did the photographer follow through with what he agreed on as far as exchanging compensation, prints, a cd...ect. Ask whatever else you'd like to know! Be sure to stay professional as what you ask the reference may make its way back to the photographer. Third, if possible, meet with a photographer over lunch to discuss details beforehand. In addition, always bring a friend to a first time shoot. It’s a good idea to bring a cell phone as well and drive your own car (or bike or have fast feet!!!) Essentially, don't let a new photographer drive you out somewhere where you could potentially be left with no way back! After you get to know photographers you may feel comfortable enough to not have a friend with you or not drive your own car. The key is that you as the model feel comfortable.

“What do I need to know about releases before I start modeling?”

The model release form is a legal document that releases an image or a group of images to a photographer, meaning they become his property. Perhaps the best way to explain a release is to examine one. Here is an example of a very simplistic FULL release form:

Date: ____________
For valuable consideration, I hereby irrevocably consent to and authorize the use and reproduction by you , or anyone authorized by you, of any and all of the photographs which you have this day taken of me, negative or positive, proofs of which are hereto attached, for any purpose whatsoever, without further compensation to me. All negatives and positives, together with the prints shall constitute your property, solely and completely.
Model Signature_______________________
Address, Phone, Email__________________
Witness Signature______________________


This release form gives full ownership of images to a photographer. If a model signs such a release, shehe has no say in what becomes of the photographs and will not profit monetarily from any money made off of them. Fortunately, there are partial releases as well as dual copyright releases which do not release the images entirely. A partial release is a release that gives a photographer partial or restricted ownership of the images. For instance, a partial release might request that the pictures not be published on any online medium. The specifics of a partial release are up to the negotiation between the model and photographer. I suggest that a model think about the following things before negotiating:

- Is there any publication or type of media which I would not want my images published? How about in a photography book? What about in an advertisement for herpes medicine? How about your glamour pictures being shown on a billboard in front of your mother’s house? Be careful with this one! Think about all the places that images are used… what are you comfortable with?
- Do I want further compensation (monetary) from any money the image might bring?
- Who do I want to have (partial or full) rights over the images? Some photographers will include their heir in the release (for post-mortem publishing). Are you cool with that?

“I’m concerned that images taken of me will be used for publications that I do not approve of. How can I still model but not end up in a porn magazine?”

Model and photographer releases are signed to give the model or photographer rights over images taken. This is a way that a model can (theoretically) ensure that if her pictures were used for anything other than that which is specified on the release, it would be illegal. For instance, if a model signed a release giving the photographer full rights of the images taken, the photographer could do whatever he wishes with them. Yet if a model signs a partial release giving a photographer rights to ONLY use them for his portfolio and art displays but not for adult websites, then if the picture ever did end up on an adult website, he broke the release and is fully sue-able. In practice, you can never ensure that your photos won't be used in a way that you don’t want them to. However, there are a number of steps a model can take to lower the risk of images being wrongly used.

(1) Know thy photographer. Prior to agreeing to work with any photographer a model should check references, review their portfolio, and meet with them to discuss a possible shoot. Ask the references what types of pictures were taken of them. Also talk to the photographer about what he intends to do with the pictures.
(2) Know thyself. Do not go to any shoot without having defined boundaries. A model must know what genres of modeling they are willing to do. A model with undefined boundaries is easier to sway. Get specific with your limits. You won’t do nude but will you do lingerie? What about sheer lingerie? Is sheer lingerie nude or not? It seems anal, but really be strict on knowing your modeling self.
(3) Know thy rights. Use those release forms! In addition, a model can ask to review any images taken and delete the ones which she might be uncomfortable with. This agreement has to be set up BEFORE any images are taken, preferably before the shoot is even scheduled.
(4) Know thy art. Having a basic understanding of the different types of photography and modeling can help protect a model. With this understanding a model can directly see if a photographer is setting up a shot according to genre standards. For instance, a photographer may ask you to do a pose in which you pull down on your waistband and look directly into the camera. The photographer is doing a front-shot with bright lighting coming from the front. The pose and photographer’s set up implies fashion, glamour, or erotic. If you’re going for artistic, it may not turn out that way!

"What needs to be in my portfolio? How recent should these pictures be?"

Your portfolio needs to reflect four things: (1) appearance (2) capability (3) limitations (4) modeling interests. So first, your portfolio should show what you look like. This means your portfolio should include images of your face, full body, back, front, sides, … And of course not in mug shot style! All of the images should reflect what you look like on camera when a photographer brings his photography skill and you bring your modeling ability. Second, it should show what you are capable of. This includes what poses you are able to do and also has to do with expression. Can you do an awesome backbend? Do you like to do very relaxed poses? Are you a very spunky model? Are you more serene? All of these things should be visible in your portfolio. The third thing that should be reflected in your portfolio is your limitations. This is important for models of any genre. You can say that you don’t do swimwear all the live long day but if you have swimwear shown in your portfolio, then that will lead a photographer to think it’s a possibility. Your portfolio should show what you will and won’t do, so if there is a shot of you that in some way goes against what your current limits are, it does not belong in your portfolio! The final thing that should be visible in your portfolio is your modeling interests. What you have in your portfolio will attract similar photographers. If you have glamour pictures in your portfolio but want to do more fashion, then start weeding out the glamour pictures and replace them with fashion. What you have in your portfolio will be what you’re hired for. Ask yourself what your interests are in modeling. Do you have an alternative look and want to do more work that emphasizes that? Your portfolio should show examples of what you’re into! The images in your portfolio should be no more than 1 year old. I believe industry standard is no more than 6 months old but if you have not changed your look or weight drastically, it should be ok to keep pictures up to 1 year old. Also, consider archiving pictures that you would still like to represent you but are too old for your current portfolio. An archive can also show how you’re work has progressed over time and show your history with modeling.

"In nude modeling, what about shaving?"

It depends on how you want to present yourself and what type of work you’re doing. In photography, it is assumed that female models will have shaved armpits and legs. Shaved pubic hair however, varies and can be questionable. Because the shaved pubic look is somewhat a modern trend, pictures taken of the shaved look will be time specific. Also, shaved pubic hair is undoubtedly linked to making a woman look pre-pubescent, thus has social implications that you or artists may want to avoid. Another thing is that pubic hair helps with some amount of coverage of the hood and the folds of the outer labia, allowing for more freedom in posing if you’d rather not expose that in your pictures. Of course, shaving your pubic hair is not prohibited. You can still be an artistic nude model and not have pubic hair. Some photographic projects require pubic hair to be shaved. For instance, certain body painting techniques or images aimed at capturing that specific look.

"I want to be a nude model but what will I do when I’m on my period?" 

It depends on how you feel on your period and what type of menstrual products you use. If you get really fatigued, crampy, moody, etc, then perhaps you should try to schedule around the worst days of it. Similarly, if you use menstrual pads then you probably don’t want to be nude while on your period (no duh). There is a menstrual alternative that I highly recommend for models and in fact for any other woman. It’s called the keeper. Tampons are fine for modeling as you can hide the string, but tampons have quite negative impacts on your health and the environment. To research for yourself, follow these links:

Alternative Products
www.keeper.com
www.lunapads.com

“Do you have any tips for the runway walk?”

The runway walk entirely depends on the show. I've participated in some shows that want the models to almost dance down the runway and others in which it’s the more stereotypical straight-faced only a little bit of hip walking. In general, these are the rules:

1. Start in a “T” stance (the heel of one foot is lined up with the inner arch of the other at a right angle forming a T. The hips, ribs, and shoulders should twist so that they face forward.)
2. Start every turn with the front foot (the base of the T is the front foot whereas the cross of the T is the back foot)
3. Rock back when you stop anywhere on the runway (R,L,R,L, rock back on R with added sway in the right hip meaning the right hip should tilt slightly out to the right side)
4. Pivots are always turning the opposite way than the foot in front (if you stop with your left foot in front and your right foot in back, you will turn right or clockwise... same vice-versa)
5. Never open your crotch to the audience (if you stop with your left foot in front and your right foot in back and you need to walk the T (you have to walk to the left or to the right) then you will start walking to your right but starting with your left foot. If you walked to your left starting with your left foot, you would open your crotch to the audience which is usually a no-no)
6. Flex your stomach for balance and for aesthetics (common runway sense and good to practice in stilletos)

“What do you bring to an open call?”

 Portfolio/Zeds/Cards – Bring these not only for the auditioners to see but also for anyone else hanging around who’s interest might be sparked by you.
Something to read – modeling is a lot of waiting, a lot.

“What do you bring to the show?”

(For females…Sorry dudes – I don’t know what you should bring)
Nude Thong
Lip Gloss
Spray deodorant
Lightweight robe
Light Snack
The key: Travel light!

"Does freelance figure modeling involve a certain type of body type? Or is a wide range acceptable?”

For figure modeling, it truly depends on the artist(s). Figure models can be thin or well rounded, young or old, short or tall... I think that the most important features about a figure model don't have to do with body type. What is important is comfort with their body and ability to pose.

"What is posing for figure drawing like?”

Posing usually starts out with short gesture poses. Gesture poses are only held for 10 to 30 seconds and are done in a quick succession. The difficult part about gesture posing is that a model must have a lot of poses that transition easily. Other poses are held longer, for 5,10,15, ect... minutes. Posing can also be done over a series of visits.

“I need help coming up with poses”

Things that a model can do to get better at posing is to take dance classes (modern, ballet, forms of jazz), yoga classes, and also researching and collecting pictures from catalogues, books, and online art galleries that have models doing poses that you like. In fact, Victoria’s Secret has some good gesture poses and the catalog is free! A lot of my poses are inspired on the spot. I always try to come up with something unique for every shoot. The photographer is not responsible for coming up with poses meaning you should be prepared with poses but also able to follow direction.

“How much money do freelance models usually charge?”

The awesome thing about being freelance is that you can charge whatever you want!!! The only thing is that you won't find work if your rates are unreasonable. For live figure modeling (for drawing classes and such), the range is around 15 to 25 dollars per hour. For photography, it depends on three things:

(1) On the type of modeling (fashion, casual, glamour, nude, ect)
(2) On the amount of experience a model has and
(3) Negotiation.

If a model does casual work it usually pays less than doing glamour. The general rule is the less clothing, the more money. The exception to the rule is artistic nudity. The reason for this is that there is little to no market for artistic nude work and a huge market for glamour, erotic, and of course adult photography. In the case of artistic nudity, a model should not request the same or less as shehe would for, say, casual. Yet the model should keep in mind that an artistic nude photographer does not make that much or any income on the pictures taken. At the same time, don’t let a photographer low-ball you! Artistic nude photography does require nudity and does require immense skill of the model. If a model has a lot of experience she can ask for more money because she is more likely to give a photographer what he wants as far as posing and getting a lot of shots in per minute. In addition, if a model has good negotiation skills, she can definitely get more money.

“Can you recommend some good photographers and make-up artists?”

Sorta. The photographers and make-up artists listed on my links page are those artists which I have worked with and those artists which I would recommend. If a model liked my work, then contacting photographers with whom I’ve worked would be a good start!   Also, for those interested in artistic nude photography, Community Zoe is nearly the absolute best online source I’ve found for networking. The link to the forum is on this websites links page.